My perfect day in London is one spent surrounded by baked goods, and so I was raring to go when House & Garden asked me to write this piece. Although I’m now pretty familiar with my favourites, I’ve still got endless lists and saved names of bakeries that I want to try. The scene in London has grown astronomically in the last few years and we are spoilt for choice in all corners of the city. I’ve made it my mission to try as many places as possible and although I’ve only just scratched the surface, I hope I’ll be able to start by guiding you through a few of the best.
The key to the perfect bakery day is a big bottle of water to wash down the sugar and dough, and a couple of friends who share your excitement and don’t mind a queue or two. It's best to start as early as you can bear, partly because the queues specifically at Layla and Fortitude can tend to get quite hefty by mid-morning, and also, at Fortitude, once they’re gone, they’re gone and if you have dedicated yourself to getting the best things from the best bakeries, you don’t want to sell yourself short by missing out.
Layla Bakery, Notting Hill
Start the day at Layla Bakery just off Golborne Road. I’m a regular at Layla because I live just round the corner, and I couldn’t ask for a better neighbour. Aside from the actual baked goods and drinks, Layla takes an approach to interiors that is equally inspiring on every visit. It’s the perfect balance of minimalist Scandi, but with plenty of character from the ceramics they use to the fabric curtains that adorn the front of the counters. The benches and tables outside are beautiful antique trestles and are filled with people, whatever the season.Their white sourdough is one of the best in London, so make sure you take a bag with you to fill with loaves from your day so you can cross-check and compare. The queue will reach the street most days but like most bakeries, it does move fast.
The good thing about taking a couple of friends with you on your bakery tour is that it’s an opportunity to try as many items as possible, splitting them forensically so you don’t miss a crumb that is owed to you from your savoured mouthfuls. The coffee at Layla is delicious so that’s a given, but in terms of baked goods my favourites are their delicately laminated dough, meaning the ones that have lots of detail in the pastry on top. They serve a pastry bow (yes) that is usually filled with custard and fruit but my favourite is their beautiful woven apple miso pastry. It ticks all the boxes for me of a balance between sweet and savoury and the pastry has a lovely silky texture. Don’t leave without a chocolate chip cookie, but that might be one for tomorrow warmed up in the oven.
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Kuro Bakery, Notting Hill
The next stop is a half hour walk away to Kuro Bakery – but if you don’t feel like walking, you can take the 452 bus from Ladbroke Grove to Notting Hill Gate. I only suggest a walk to allow your body a chance to digest the first stop of the day. Kuro is something of an underrated bakery in London and doesn’t get talked about as much as it should. First of all, the coffee is sensational. However, if you need to pace yourself on the coffee then I’d suggest trying a matcha (if that’s your thing) because the matcha at Kuro is one of the best in London. Not many places in London know how to make a good matcha but Kuro truly do. As far as eating, as a sucker for a good plain croissant, I can't pass the opportunity to get one from Kuro.
On the more adventurous side, the vanilla sãkuro is sensational and unlike anything else in London; it’s sort of a filled cinnamon bun crossed with a croissant and if you can't imagine that, you’ll just have to try it. If you really want a third pastry, which you probably do, order the cardamom bun. Sometimes sticky buns like this can be quite dense, but this one is perfectly sweet, fluffy and dare I say, moist. Although I’m yet to try it, Kuro does do a chausson aux pommes which you rarely see in London artisan bakeries and is my favourite French pastry, so it’s next on my list. One note, don't confuse Kuro Bakery with its café around the corner from the café; it has a limited amount of baked goods on the counter (though it does have seating) so you're better off at the bakery where they have the full selection of pastries, bread and a bench to perch on outside.
Jolene, Highbury & Islington
Now it's time to hop over town and take the tube to Highbury and Islington and walk to Jolene on Essex Road. At least one of the Jolene bakeries must be included on this perfect day out because their dedication to sustainable practices of farming grain and sourcing ingredients is commendable, and everything they produce is delicious. Like Layla, the interiors are inspiring, minimal though they are. By the time you reach Jolene, it’ll probably be mid-morning and so depending on the day, it may be quite busy by now. If you’re ready for a break from flaky pastry, it might be well-timed because Jolene will likely be sold out by the time you get there. Instead, go for their scones or cakes. Sorry to be a flour geek, but these are the best vehicles with which to feel the quality of the ingredients they use, and they are extremely good. Their scones are served with cream and homemade jam, so you can't go wrong. It's ironically rare to get a good scone in an artisan bakery or coffee shop around London and Jolene does it so well. Perch on the bench outside if it’s too busy inside.
Fortitude Bakehouse, Bloomsbury
Last on the list but certainly not least, is Fortitude Bakehouse. The walk there from Jolene will take you about 40 minutes and it’s a pleasant way to walk off the full belly, making room for perhaps the most indulgent stop yet. Without any doubt and whatever time, there will pretty much always be a queue at Fortitude which of course peaks around mid-morning but yes, it is well worth it. Fortitude is most famous for its beignets which come out at 11am every day, so hopefully you’ve timed this well before they sell out a few hours later. Beignets are brioche dough filled with cream, which is often flavoured or topped with something delicious and vibrant. They also sell beautiful brioche sandwiches of varying seasonal fillings if you’re ready for something savoury, but there are also plenty of other options for impressive, sweet pastries and buns if you are ready for something else. Fortitude does have some benches outside, but the seating is limited, so either crouch on the pavement (it’s located down a mews street so no need to stress about traffic) or consume the last of your day standing, passing the box around your friends as you bite to savour every ounce of cream.
