Hake and mussels poached in summer tomatoes
Susanna’s credentials
‘For more than 20 years The Goods Shed, in Canterbury, has provided the local community with a group of vendors and producers under one roof, who all take great pride in their particular fare – be it fruit and vegetables from local farmers, fresh fish, artisan cheese, charcuterie, nose-to- tail butchery, patisserie or dry stores. It is an institution of local, environmentally produced, seasonal food.’
Susanna’s tip for sustainable sourcing
‘Any good fishmonger should be able to source UK-caught hake in September. At this time of year, our vegetable stall at The Goods Shed is overflowing with dozens of varieties of local tomatoes that are ripened on the vine. They are full of vibrant flavour, compared with the imported fruits that are harvested underripe for transport.’
Why have you chosen this recipe?
‘Kent is known as the Garden of England and we’re blessed with coastline on three sides so I cook with a lot of fish. For this recipe, I use hake as it has a firm texture and is one of the top five on the Marine Conservation Society’s list of sustainable choices. You can use a mix of tomato varieties or whatever is sweetest. Romano peppers are also great at this time of year and can be grown and sourced locally. You could add leaves like spinach or chard, too, to wilt in the juices before serving. On summer days, I pick up my children from school and head straight to the beach. While they play, I build a fire to cook this dish on.’
Yield
Serves 6
Ingredients
To serve
Step 1
When I cook this over an open fire, I rake out some coals to put a large lidded pot on (if cooking at home on the hob, you will need a medium-to-high heat). I then find a space on the side to rest the peppers on a rack above the coals to blister their skins (alternatively, you can cook the peppers under a hot grill). Turn the peppers to ensure a good char, then set them aside to cool a little before peeling, deseeding and chopping them roughly.
Step 2
Pour the olive oil into the pot, add the onions, season well with salt and black pepper, and fry gently for around 10 minutes, until they start to break down. Add the garlic and, after another minute or so, the tomatoes.
Step 3
Add the peppers to the pot. Maintain the heat at a nice simmer so the tomato sauce does not stick to the bottom. Add the smoked sweet paprika, most of the tarragon leaves and some seasoning. Taste and tweak the balance of sweet, salty and smoky/spicy. Remember, this sauce is what will give the hake its taste, so the flavour must be robust.
Step 4
Pop the hake and the mussels on top of the sauce and cover with a lid. I leave the skin on the hake – you can easily peel it off later before serving – as I want to keep all the goodness in the sauce. The fish should be cooked within 5-6 minutes, by which time the mussels should also be open; it will keep cooking as you wrestle the pot off the fire or remove it from the hob and plate up.
Step 5
Sprinkle with a bit more fresh tarragon and serve with some crusty bread and crunchy lettuce.
