A writer, a chef, a culinary artist and a sommelier walk into a restaurant. Not the start of a bad joke, but rather an indispensable guide to the current London food scene. London has so much to offer it can be totally overwhelming. In fact, we struggle to limit it down each month for our 50 best restaurants in London round up.
When visiting a city, some of the best reviews come from word of mouth. That's why all of our round ups and reviews are just that: experienced, discerning and hungry scouts scouring restaurants big and small and reporting back to our readers.
There's such joy in collecting the messy, muddled ‘saved’ collections on friends’ Google Maps. Like strange, tangled webs of delicious food and beautiful beaches, sweaty bars and early morning flea markets (that we all claim to go to, but never quite manage)–they're invaluable tools.
With this in mind, we've reached into the minds of some of the most exciting names in the London food scene right now to sketch out the perfect culinary map of London. Whether you're a local expanding your horizons beyond your regular haunts, or a visitor looking for a guaranteed good time, these experts are your golden ticket. From the oldest restaurant in London to a classic bagel spot, via two mentions of both Cafe Deco and Mountain, here are four ways to eat your way through London…
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Riaz Phillips, food columnist
2 Stoke Newington High St, N16 7PL
I usually have breakfast at home but if I’m strapped for time I’ll grab some sort of salmon and cream cheese bagel from here. They’ve been about since I was a child (and are open 24 hours a day) so I always breathe a sigh of relief if I leave London for a while and they are still there.
36B Stamford Hill, N16 6XZ
Although Caribbean food is often shoehorned into a singular cuisine it varies hugely in different sub-regions. Roti Stop flies the flag high for Trinidad and Tobago and its Indo-Caribbean heritage. Whilst they do sell Jamaican favourites like patties the focus is on Roti. Here you can choose from either a soft split pea lined roti called Dal Puri or a flaky roti called Paratha or ‘Buss up Shut’ and have both stuffed with a meaty curry or veggie stew from the choices
3 Great Titchfield St., W1W 8AX
Every bite at Chishuru is a joy and their newest space has given head chef and owner Joke the domain to earn a well-deserved Michelin star. The restaurant takes the starting point of Joke’s Nigerian heritage with Jollof rice then inspiration from its neighbouring countries with servings of Guinea fowl prepared with a metropolitan flair producing a truly unique dining experience you’ll only find in places like London.
133 Copeland Road, Sutton, SE15 3SN
Tucked away in the back of Peckham, Jumbi is a much-needed addition to the rapidly changing scene in South East London. Good drinks and great food are soon shimmied to the side along with the tables as a dance floor emerges commanded by vinyl-playing DJs into the late hours.
Sometimes we take for granted what’s on our own doorsteps. England has the best confectionery in the world and its bakeries are equally incredible. Yes, it is a shame that supermarkets have engulfed local delicacy stores but some still endeavour to put out high-class baked goods and snacks. This is a long-winded way of me saying that M&S’ cookies are sublime. That said, not all M&S bakeries are created equal so if you find a good one with consistent fresh wares make sure you become a regular face to the baker.
Riaz is a columnist for @guardian in @guardianfeast; @riazphillips
Jason Atherton, Michelin star Chef
18-20 Bedford Hill, SW12 9RG
Milk in Balham is a must-try spot. Visiting has become an almost weekly ritual for my daughters and me on weekends. Exceptional coffee, delicious food and their Lazer Sauce is always stocked in our pantry — it's a favourite spot for our family.
The Devonshire, 17 Denman St, W1D 7HW
The Devonshire in Soho is one of the greatest grill houses in London. They have an incredibly talented team behind the kitchen and are working with some fantastic producers.
199 Tooley St, SE1 2JX
Restaurant Story by Tom Sellers is one of my favourites. Tom is brilliantly creative, and it's always exciting to see the weird and wonderful creations he adds to the menu. He has a fantastic team behind the kitchen and the quality of service is consistently outstanding.
1 Grosvenor Pl, SW1X 7HJ and The Connaught, 16 Carlos Pl, W1K 2AL
Imogen Kwok, culinary artist
9 Mercer Street, WC2H 9QJ or 27 Duke St, W1U 1LE
I don’t go out for breakfast very often. I prefer a late brunch at home, which case the shokupan loaf from Arome Bakery is the best for toast – it turns any simple toast into something special.
43 Store St, WC1E 7DB, 108 Chepstow Rd, W2 5QS or 35-39 Inverness Terrace, W2 3JS
Cafe Deco in Bloomsbury is wholesome, tasty and laid back. It has a very sweet outdoor dining area on a quiet street. I live in Notting Hill, so if I want to go out for a quick lunch around me I’m either at Med Salleh Viet or Med Salleh Kopitiam, which are Vietnamese and Malaysian respectively if I want bright punchy flavours.
2.14, Top Floor, Kingly Ct, Carnaby St, W1B 5PW or 16-18 Beak St, W1F 9RD
Dinner: I just went to Donia and it’s amazing Filipino food (order the Salted Egg & Tomato Salad, Lechon and Chicken Insaal). The restaurant spot in Kingly Court is touristy but don’t let that deter you. Mountain is another favourite (original restaurants Brat and Brat Climpson’s Arch)
9 Seymour St, W1H 7BA
Finish your day downstairs at Kol – the Mezcaleria is one of my go-to's for tequila and mezcal cocktails, and small bites (upstairs is a tasting menu but downstairs small plates and more casual).
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Molly Pepper Steemson, sommelier and writer
111 Holloway Rd, N7 8LT
Breakfast is un-negotiably at the Hope Worker’s Cafe on Holloway Road, and is a bacon roll and a cup of tea. Tea with milk, no sugar; bacon roll with brown sauce. The brown sauce at the Hope Cafe is better than the brown sauce everywhere else.
49 Willesden Ln, NW6 7RF
From the Hope it's an easy overground journey to Kilburn, to go to Vijay’s for lunch. Lunch at Vijay’s should always be a Masala Dosai with Sambar and the Cabbage Carrot Thoran. Maybe a small beer. This has been my dad’s lunch order since 1981, and mine since the early 2000s. The decor, like our lunch order, has not changed in 40 years.
55 Exhibition Rd, SW7 2PG
From Vijay’s I’d get the Bakerloo line to Paddington and then walk south, over Hyde Park, to Ognisko. Sitting by the window in the bar at The Polish Hearth Club I like to order a beetroot martini, then another. If I get hungry (which I do) I order pierogi, which are a bit cumbersome as a bar snack but absolutely, fantastically worth it. They used to do a glass bowl of crispy pig skin with apple sauce; I wish they still did.
43 Store St, WC1E 7DB
Dinner, I think, should be at Cafe Deco. Geographically this makes no justifiable sense but after a beetroot martini I almost always want a devilled egg, and Anna’s are the best.
16-18 Beak St, W1F 9RD or 34-35 Maiden Ln, WC2E 7LB
To finish I want a glass of champagne and an Ensaïmada at Mountain, or a Manhattan in the bar upstairs at Rules. Either would be good, both would be better.